Over a suspension bridge bedecked with prayer flags, on a promontory overlooking the Modi Khola, sits the aptly named Birethanti Lodge, amid half a mile of river frontage and blooming lawns full of marigolds, poinsettias and butterflies. A short walk from here down a gentle hill is the trekker’s base in Birethanti. Modi Khola and the nearby subtropical forests are excellent for botanical and birding expeditions.
This stylish spot has 18 roomy rooms, each hand crafted by local artisans. Every room comes with en-suite bathroom, hot running water (hotter in the evening, when the solar cells are fullest), a comfy bed, and all the classic Mountain Lodges offerings, from cold bottled water to a hot water bottle—plus an Ayurvedic massage service, laundry, and wifi.
Against the hum of the roaring river, you’ll find fine service and pleasant routine guiding life at Sanctuary Lodge: Afternoon tea served at 4.30 PM, and a communal dinner at 7:00 PM. At sunrise, guests gather outside for steaming cups of tea followed by breakfast of porridge and eggs, then most head out for their day's hike.
Although the lodges are considered hike-in, hike-out, having a drivable road not far outside of camp provides a welcome sense of security. In case of illness or accident it’s quite easy to get a jeep to take you back to civilization in Pokhara.